ULed Ultra Bright LED Torch Turnd ” Night To Day”

Anyone who is in the market for an ultra bright LED torch might be worth giving the new ULed torch a little more investigation as the compact pocket size torch is capable of providing a huge amount of luminosity.

The ULed LED torch has been designed to be the most powerful torch of its kind and can even be used as a power bank to recharge your mobile devices when required.

Check out the video below to learn more about its minimalist design and huge flashlight power which allows you to transform “night into day” say it’s developers.

Hello everyone. We are the “ULed team”. We created this product for you and people who needs a flashlight with SUPER illumination, good functionality and love minimalistic design. That was the main goals for us. And we did.

That’s more powerful than any other serially manufactured flashlight of the corresponding size. ULed will perfectly illuminate the space ahead of you, leaving no dark corners. ULed is a real monster of light. It’s perfect for search operations in low visibility conditions and many other situations.

ULed is equipped with ultra bright LED capable of an exceedingly bright 8000 maximum lumen output. ULed features three levels of illumination and two safety modes: Low, Medium, High, Strobe, SOS.


For more information on the new ULed jump over to the Kickstarter website for details, where pledges are now available for early bird backers starting at $169 via the link below.

Everything you need to know about night-fishing lights

Night fishing can be an exhilarating experience, full of mystery and expectation. When will something take the bait? What will it be? Will I overcome it, or will it overcome me?

If you hook something big, you hope it’s a trophy fish. But you’re never really sure. You don’t know what’s down there, and you won’t know for certain until you reel it up from the depths. That’s what draws a hard-boiled fraternity of anglers to this witching-hour sport.

Exciting? Definitely. Memorable? Always. Night fishing is a pursuit like no other.

You can catch many fish during daylight hours, but during summer, the odds for success often improve if you fish between dusk and dawn.

If you do go night fishing, you’ll need lights — not just lights to see by, but specialty lights that draw sport fish close to your boat. The latter work by attracting tiny animals called zooplankton, which attract baitfish such as shad, herring and minnows, which in turn attract predator fish such as bass, crappie and walleyes. Sport fish gather near or in the circle of light to feed. The angler drops in a bait or lure to catch them.

Three primary types of specialty lights — floating fishing lights, submersible fishing lights and black lights — are used for night fishing. Floating and submersible lights are used to attract fish and can be used separately or in combination. Combinations — a pair of floating lights positioned above two submersible lights, for example — tend to be more versatile, lighting multiple levels of the water column to attract fish no matter where they are, while also providing more above-the-water lighting for tying knots, hooking bait and unhooking fish. Black lights are used primarily to illuminate fishing line, allowing the angler to determine what’s happening below by seeing, rather than just feeling, line movement.

Floating lights

Early fishermen often used torches to illuminate the water where they fished. Lanterns have also been used for decades, including the veritable Coleman lantern, a mainstay among many night fishermen even now.

One of the earliest specialty lights used for night fishing was a traditional floating model featuring a Styrofoam flotation ring surrounding a white, sealed-beam light similar to a vehicle headlight. This type of light is inexpensive and still widely available. Most run off 12-volt systems, with alligator clips attached to battery posts for power. The angler places the light (sometimes several lights) beside the boat, where it floats with the beam of light pointing down to attract baitfish and game fish.

In recent years, floating lights with more energy-efficient LED or fluorescent illumination have become widely available. Also, green lights have become available in addition to white. Power for these models may come from standard 12-volt alligator clips, a cigarette-lighter plug or alkaline batteries. A molded handle on some of these units allows them to double as spotlights, camp lights or boat lights. The best also have safety fuses and long, safely insulated cords. Some have a built-in black light on top to help illuminate your line.

Submersible lights

Floating lights were the standard of night fishermen for many years, but the users of these lights often had to contend with annoying swarms of insects drawn to the lights along with fish. For this and other reasons, submersible lights were developed that slide beneath the surface and light up the depths. Battery-powered, 12-volt, LED and fluorescent models are available, with white or green lights.

Many submersible models are weighted internally or otherwise constructed so they sink immediately when put in the water. Others sink only after the addition of a weight to a swivel clip on one end of the light. These lights float without a weight, so the user can vary where they are positioned in the water column for increased versatility. Submersible lights that use fluorescent bulbs are often available in different lengths (9-inch and 21-inch, for example) as well.

Fishing-light colors

Fishing lights are available in two primary colors: white and green. You might wonder why red lights aren’t used, or blue or purple. Why white and green? And which color is better? Does it really matter?

Darrell Keith, founder of Hydro Glow Fishing Lights (www.hydroglow.com) in Dawsonville, Georgia, has spent years studying how lights attract fish. He said white and green wavelengths of light are most attractive to plankton. Plankton is a primary food of many baitfish, so when plankton gather in the lighted portion of the water, baitfish move in to enjoy the banquet. The baitfish in turn attract game fish looking for an easy meal.

“Plankton migrate to light for reproduction,” Keith said. “And green has the best ability to cause this to happen. White works, too, but white light is absorbed very quickly in water. It doesn’t penetrate very deep, so it’s less effective than green, which maintains its color character at much greater depths.”

Some fish — baitfish and sport fish — are attracted directly by the lights rather than the plankton or bait, and once again, green is superior for this purpose.

“Blue, like green, has a greater distance of effective area,” Keith said. “But for some reason, blue light works in saltwater but won’t attract bait in fresh water. For example, when we dropped a blue light in a freshwater lake in North Carolina, blueback herring wouldn’t come to it. But green light was very attractive to these baitfish.”

In some experiments, Keith put five different colors of lights in the water at the same time, and green always attracted bait (thus sport fish) far better. This fact is common knowledge now among manufacturers of fishing lights, so green lights have quickly become most prevalent. White lights are still available and still effective to some extent, but not as effective as green. So when you have a choice, purchasing green lights is probably the best option. And if you still have white lights you use, adding one or more green lights will increase the effectiveness of your illumination efforts.

Black lights

Black (ultraviolet) lights are also useful night-fishing aids. Black lights illuminate fluorescent monofilament, making it more visible over a greater distance. When the ultraviolet lights are on, you can keep an eye on your line and watch for the slightest twitch or movement, indicating a bite. Rods with fluorescent tips also glow brightly under black lights. And a dab of fluorescent paint on frequently used tools, and tackle will glow, too, so the items are more easily found when you need them.

Most black lights run off a 12-volt electrical system or several D-cell batteries. Higher-end models often come with features like the addition of green and/or white lights that can be used while rigging, cleaning or performing other general topside tasks; switches that allow you to turn on just the number of lights needed; and cordless, rechargeable construction that allows you to charge the unit at home with a 110-volt charger. Many have suction-cup feet for temporary rail mounting, and a few come with plug-in jacks that can be permanently installed on boat rails for easy on-off use.

UV LED Leak Detection Flashlight Easily Spots All Aviation Fluid Leaks

Spectroline’s® OPTI-LUX™ 365 (OLX-365) LED leak detection flashlight is key to preventive maintenance. That’s because help aviation maintenance technicians find even the smallest leaks fluid systems in mere minutes and is ideal for all aviation fluid system applications. The OPTI-LUX 365 is extremely compact and lightweight. With its powerful UV LED, the flashlight has an inspection range of 25 feet (7.6 m) or more. Powered by one rechargeable lithium-ion battery (extra battery included in kit), it provides 4 hours of continuous inspection between charges. The rugged, anodized aluminum lamp body reduces corrosion and stands up to years of heavy use. More than twice as powerful as most corded, high-intensity UV lamps, it works with Spectroline® Aero-Brite™ universal fluorescent dye, producing a brilliant glow that makes all leaks easier to locate. Together, they pinpoint even the most elusive leaks the first time and every time. The flashlight comes complete with a lanyard, belt holster, two rechargeable batteries, smart charging cradle with AC power cord and UV-absorbing spectacles, all conveniently packaged in a padded carrying case. The best thing about that you when you use the flashlight with Spectroline dyes, you don’t need to waste time or money flushing them away. Because they can safely stay in the system. Together, they can become your most cost-effective two tools for finding future leaks and implementing a preventive leak maintenance plan that will save time and money.

Forced-air system

Comfort, energy efficiency and safety are major issues when choosing a heating method for a home. Likewise, the cost and expected service life of the equipment also play a part.

When it comes to boiler vs furnace, the lower cost of installing and maintaining a furnace is its primary advantage. Furnaces are also relatively simple to use and require only a few basic operating components. They are also energy efficient, especially when used in conjunction with a programmable thermostat. Lastly, forced air systems can be used as an all-in-one HVAC system to heat and cool your home whereas boilers utilizing radiant heat can only be used for heating.Forced-air has become the standard for heating multi-room residences and the widespread adoption of this heat source is in itself one of its advantages. On the other hand, we’re accustomed to noisy fans kicking on and off, being too hot upstairs and too cold downstairs, wrapping ourselves in extra layers only to strip them off a short time later, and constantly adjusting the thermostat to try and keep comfortable.


  • Only HVAC system that heats and cools
  • Air filter improves air quality when replaced regularly
  • The whole-house humidifier in the ductwork to maintain proper interior humidity.


  • Prone to air leakage, reducing efficiency
  • Uneven air distribution can occur
  • Blowing air stirs up allergens within home
  • Noisy operation

Hydronic systems

Hot water radiant systems, also called hydronic heating, use heated water circulating through PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) tubing. The tubing is embedded and installed with PEX piping tools in mortar or in extra thick plywood sub-floor panels that have pre-cut channels for holding the tubing in place. The plywood method can’t be used under nail-down flooring like hardwood.Radiant heating systems supply heat directly to the floor or to panels in the wall or ceiling of a house. The systems depend largely on radiant heat transfer — the delivery of heat directly from the hot surface to the people and objects in the room via infrared radiation. Radiant heating is the effect you feel when you can feel the warmth of a hot stovetop element from across the room. When radiant heating is located in the floor, it is often called radiant floor heating or simply floor heating.


  • Adds supplemental heat to cooler rooms
  • Does not distribute allergens into room
  • Ideal for remodeling projects
  • Quiet operation
  • Energy effective

Radiant heat is more effective because:

  • Energy Use and Parasitic Loss
    With inherent flaws and imperfections in duct work, heat escapes the system and is lost to unknown parts of your house while increased air pressure in rooms can add strain to weather stripping, causing leaks. Also, air blowers often require 9x the amount of electricity as the pumps in radiant systems.
  • Lower Ceiling Temperatures
    Heat doesn’t rise – but hot air does. It’s the primary reason why so much insulation is used beneath the roof. In a forced air system, hot air his pumped into a room and rapidly rises to the ceiling which can cause a temperature swing of 10 degrees between the ceiling and the floor. This air stratification becomes worse in rooms with high ceilings. In a two-story home, the upstairs can be stifling hot while downstairs is too cool.
  • Zoning reduces energy usage
    Most forced air homes have a single thermostat to control the temperature of the entire home. These “single zone systems” are the norm because forced air is inherently difficult and expensive to control. The result is inconsistent comfort – some rooms too cool, others too hot, and rooms in direct sunlight overheat depending on the time of day.
  • Lower air temperatures for the same comfort
    Even on a cool, windy day, we can feel warm as the sun shines upon us. This is because the radiant heat from the sun allows us to be comfortable even with low air temperatures. The same is true in your home. With the warmth emanating from a radiant floor, you experience greater comfort with the thermostat set lower than those in a forced air home.


  • Can be expensive for whole-house heating
  • Only provides heat – not air conditioning